Anne-Marie’s bad knee meant that
she could no longer do the house-keeping to the standard that she wanted to, so
I roped myself in to helping her out. It meant that I was able to have a good
nosey around the house. The main room
was vast and open-plan, comprising kitchen and living area. Next to the front
door was the inside toilet, around which stairs ascended. Half of the wall
facing out onto the valley was window from top to bottom, and this, coupled
with the fact that the walls were as white as snow, meant that if there was
light to be seen outside, the house was pleasingly full of it, bouncing up off
the shiny wooden floorboards. In front of the window was a dining table,
immaculately wiped down after each meal, and to the left were a fireplace and a
small sofa in a medium state of collapse, surrounded by assorted wicker baskets
from which the reassuring clutter of life was overflowing. I was glad that
there was clutter; I had never trusted clinical, clutter-free houses. This
clutter was an intriguing mixture of discarded toys, discarded books, and
screwed up pieces of half-used paper.
The other half of the room – the
one not dominated by the window feature – was the kitchen. Along the wall with
the window ran a hob, work surface and washing up area, covered with cooking
paraphernalia and just slightly too low for me to be comfortable at. Beneath
the hob was an unpredictable old gas oven which was either on at full blast or
else not at all, and below the rough-hewn wood surfaces ran shelving to contain
the clutter and sometimes a token cat, hidden behind faded terracotta-coloured
curtains.
Leading off this room by
way of a doorless door frame was Anne-Marie and Pierre’ bedroom. I once owned a
postcard proclaiming words which appealed to me: Why should I tidy my room when the world’s in such a mess? The two
farmers clearly held this as a motto. I didn’t realise that adults sometimes
lived in pigsties as well as teenagers and pigs. They slept on a double
mattress on the floor, which they shared with underwear which may or may not
have been clean, whilst shirt sleeves made a bid for freedom from drawers
around the room. The most bizarre aspect of the room, however, was the window
through to the bathroom. I couldn’t work it out. The bathroom was in a central
location in the house, and must always have been a part of it, yet it was
designed like a potting shed with a capacious open shower at the far end, and
with this window overlooking the garden of tangled bedsheets and blossoming
trousers. This was the only place where ablutions were possible, except for au natural with the hosepipe in full
view of the valley. I wasn’t quite ready to brave the latter, so on the rare
occasions that the water was heated (about once a week), the former it was; I
hoped furtively that nobody would walk into the bedroom and catch me starkers. Anne-Marie
promised me that she would try to keep the men occupied while I got myself
clean.
The boys were confused by the fact
that Anne-Marie wasn’t her usual self, but they were too young to understand
fully that she couldn’t act as she normally would. After all, she looked
exactly the same. So they pestered and pestered, and eventually their parents
agreed to take them down into the valley to go swimming. It was warm up there
on the hillside, but in the valley it was much hotter. The boys loved to go to
an area of the river Doux near to a campsite which had been roped off
specifically for the purpose of swimming. The only problem was that to access
the grassy bank where non-swimmers could recline on dry towels we still had to
ford the shallowest past of the river and then tiptoe along a thin, one-sided
iron bridge. With Anne-Marie supported between Pierre and me, we eventually
made it across. We must have made a funny spectacle. Meanwhile the boys had
splashed into the water and met some of their water-logged classmates. They
came out after a while, dripping and begging for fromage. I lay back and gave myself up to the sun-drenched ambient
murmur of French.
Later that evening, Anne-Marie suggested that we
watched a film once the boys had been put to bed. I was tired myself, but I
didn’t want to turn down the opportunity to immerse myself in the language.
There was no television on the farm, but Anne-Marie bought films online and so
the three of us squeezed on to a creaky wooden bench on the mezzanine that
overlooked the dining table, watching the computer screen as moths were
attracted out of the gloam to the eye-straining glare of Audrey Tatou’s face.
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